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This page is currently under construction. The text is mostly updated, but the fonts and headings are all a mess because parts have been copied from my book. Fixing it is a work in progress.
Kyoto is the vegan capital of Asia. It has over a dozen purely vegan restaurants, and, unlike Tokyo, most are within walking distance of the common visitor attractions. And while shojin ryori (Buddhist temple cuisine) is a must-eat at least once in Japan -- and Kyoto the best place to do it -- many other vegan restaurants are surprisingly inexpensive. A simple, healthy set meal often costs as little as a thousand yen -- less than a comparable meal would be in most of the world's historic cities.This summary of vegan restaurants in Kyoto, which I originally wrote several years ago, is being updated with information from my upcoming Japan Travel Guide for Vegans. It will include not just food (that's here on this blog, and of course on Happycow) but also sights, attractions, and travel practicalities necessary to get the most out of a trip to Japan for a vegan (or vegetarian) foreign visitor. It has more in common with a traditional travel guide (eg Lonely Planet, Rough Guide) than it does with other vegan guides, most of which only cover restaurants.
Shojin Ryori
While expensive, if possible I recommend trying shojin ryori (Buddhist temple cuisine) at least once in Japan, preferably in Kyoto. This cuisine has been developed over centuries (after Buddhism was imported from China) and is vegan without onion or garlic.Fake Shojin?
Alternative: Koyasan
Staying at a temple at Koyasan is a great way to experience a temple and try shojin ryori. At 10,000 Yen it's much more economic than dining in Kyoto (Eko In). |
Reservations
Best Meals at a Glance
Best Shojin Ryori (Buddhist Temple Cuisine) | Kanga An |
Best Non-Shojin Ryori Fine Dining | Little Heaven |
Best Western Comfort Food | Vegans Cafe and Restaurant, Morpho Cafe |
Best Japanese, Best Macrobiotic | Padma |
Best-value Simple, Healthy Meals | Sujata, Veggie Cafe , Kitten Compay |
Best International Food | Sujata (Indian), Veggie Cafe (Middle Eastern), |
Work/Study/Hangout Space | Cafe Choice |
Kyoto Districts
Central and Northern Kyoto
This section includes all restaurants north of Kyoto Station and in between Arashiyama to the far west, and the Kamogawa River to the east. Restaurants east of the river are listed under Higashiyama below.This section contains several restaurants and several attractions, but most visitors only visit a few of these attractions and eat at a few restaurants, while Higashiyama and Arashiyama are both worth at least a day in themselves.
These are divided into two groups: close to Kyoto Station, and all others.
Kyoto Station Area
Organic House Salute ($$, Macrobiotic, Vegan, オーガニックハウス サルーテ)
Vege Deli Kanna ($, Ramen, Curry)
Veg Out ($$, Western, Vegan)
Gion and Around
Ain Soph Journey ($$, Fusion, Vegan)
AinSoph, one of Tokyo’s earliest vegan institutions which now runs severalbranches, opened here in place of one of the city's vegan pioneers, Matsuontoko. Ain Soph serveshealthier food than its predecessor, but what’s most important is that thisspot lives on as the go-to place for food in the cultural heart of Kyoto. Trueto its reputation from the capital, this branch also serves healthy, satisfyingmeals, at a surprisingly low prices for this location, at around YY1,000 for asmall meal.
Veggie Café ($$, Middle Eastern, Macrobiotic,Vegan, ベジカフェ)
Pita pockets are the Veggie Café staple, but the alternative macrobiotic concept has been extended to other dishes. This one: Spanish Omelet – 700 Yen |
The owner of this charming little cafe is very passionate about healthy, organic food, particularly the use of agrochemicals in food, and he introduced me to the Fukuoka Method of Natural Farming, a system far better for the environment and its flora and fauna than organic farming. He returned to Japan from the USA to open the Veggie Cafe, which originally applied macrobiotic principles to Middle Eastern foods, particularly falafel, as he wanted to apply a familiar healthy food concept to something different to the regular curries and fake meat served at macrobiotic restaurants all over Japan. His menu now extends well beyond its falafel-and-hummus beginnings to include a range of soups, burgers and mexican dishes. During my visit he was experimenting with vegan baking using organic, whole grains.
These delicious pancakes were made from organic, whole grains. |
Kinkakuji (Silver Pavilion)
Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) is perhaps Kyoto's most famous landmark, but has no notable vegan restaurants nearby. A good option is to go to Morpho Cafe and take bus 12, or alternatively it makes a great walk back to central Kyoto. |
Last order is half an hour before closing.
Seven minutes’ walk west of Sanjo Station on the Keihan Line.
Three minutes’ walk south of Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Station on the Tozai Line, which is of little use in this itinerary.
About fifteen minutes north of Kyoto Station by Bus 市営205甲, 市営急行104, or 市営4 from outside Kyoto Station (¥230).
〒604-8082 京都府京都市中京区天性寺前町532-2 北原ビル
Japan, 〒604-8082 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Tenshojimaecho, 532-2, Kitahara Building.
Limited menu and tiny portions.
These quiches have recently been discontinued, and there is now more of a focus on baked goods, but the photo is an indication of what meal size and style. |
This little café used to serve a delicious lunch plate, but now focuses on its namesake smoothies, and healthy cereal bowls. They appear to have moved most of their more restaurant-like offerings to Veg Out, their other venue which focuses more on food (see above). Tamisa serves the perfect food for a yogi, and is a nice place to spend some time sipping a smoothie, but is perhaps not ideal for someone who is about to spend a long day walking Higashiyama. In that case, try Veg Out of Choice, though neither of them offer big meals either.
Gomacro Salon ($$, Sesame, Honey, ゴマクロサロン)
〒604-8207 京都府京都市中京区神明町67−3
Open Sesame? It's said that this saying from the Syrian classic Arabian Nights has its origins in the powerful health benefits of sesame. True or not, you probably never realised how many ways seasme can improve a meal until you dine at Gomacro -- literally sesame in Japanese. Here simple vegetable dishes (which in Japan are always cooked to perfection and delicous in themselves) reach a new level thanks to the addition of sesame products.
The restaurant is one of two owned by a major supplier of sesame to the Japanese market; Unfortunately the other one is not vegan. The two restaurants showcase the sesame products; they are also sold in a small shop inside the restaurant. I often find food disppointing at vegan branches of non-vegan chains, but that is not the case here, though of course by dining here we are supporting a non-vegan enterprise.
Morpho Cafe ($$, Fusion, Vegan, モルフォカフェ)
Fifteen minutes' walk southwest of Imadegawa Station on the Karasuma (subway) Line.
Fifteen minutes' walk north of Nijo Castle (Nijo Palace).
Twelve minutes' walk (one kilometre) west of Kyoto Imperial Gardens, Hamaguri Gomon (west) Exit.
〒602-8242 京都府京都市上京区皀莢町309
309 Saikachicho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto, 602-8242
This new curry noodle dish is an impressive and certainly unusual fusion of Thai and Japanese tastes. I was told to add the rice after finishing the noodles, which worked well. |
Happycow, Facebook
South Indian food at good prices.
Yama Shokuon is nothing if not unique: How often will you have Japanese chef prepare you a South Indian meal inside a mountaineering store? The space is a joint venture between Plant Lab, who previously served authentic Tibetan and Vietnamese dishes, and the Yamatomichi hiking store. Plant Lab serves the only vegetarian south Indian food in the city (Sujata focuses more on north Indian dishes, such as curries and roti), and some of the best of this cuisine I have ever eaten in Japan. Staff speak English, and are clearly passionate about promoting vegan food, and in my experience, they were happy to offer advice about travelling in Kyoto and Japan in general.
Northern Kyoto
Zuishizan Kanga An ($$$, Shojin Ryori, Vegan, 瑞芝山 閑臥庵)
A feast at Kanga An includes several meals like these ones. |
There are more Shojin Ryori places than I could possibly review in Kyoto, however most visitors dine at only a few owing to the high price tag. Kanga An is perhaps the most traditional, or the ‘real deal’, and at around ¥10,000 yen per person, so it should be. Each of several servings is exquisitely prepared and presented, more like a work of art than a meal, and staff are happy to explain each (in Japanese). As with all Shojin Ryori, it should be vegan, however it never hurts to check, as there have been cases of dishes containing milk and egg appearing, in fitting with the oversimplified Buddhist view that animals are not killed to produce them.
Stardust ($$, Fusion, Vegan, スターダスト)
Twenty minutes' walk or ten minutes by bus (市営北3) northwest of Kita-Oji Station on the Karasuma (subway) Line.
While it's normal to reserve a table for peak dining hours at busy restaurants, in Japan restaurants which require a reservation days in advance are usually upmarket places which offer an unparalled cultural and culinary experience. Most serve shojin ryori (Buddhist vegan cuisine), the best of which is Kanga An, but Little Heaven in Arashiyama serves a similarly exquisite meal in more of a Western dining arrangement.
Stardust takes an element of this, with the personalised meal prepared for the diner, so you turn up to find a meal prepared for you. I chose to eat in a beautiful garden, making it one of the most serene dining experiences I have had in Japan, not unlike shojin ryori but in a simplified way. And that's exactly what Stardust does: it offers a personalised, charming dining expeirence, but with a simpler meal for a fraction of the price tag. But that is not to say the meal isn't anything special: the meal was healthy, delicious and satisfying even by Japanese standards, and the staff were incredibly welcoming.
If you have the time and can plan far enough ahead, I highly recommend reserving a meal here.
Higashiyama (東山)
entrance to Kiyomizu Dera, one of Kyoto's most famous temples, on a rare snow day |
Higashiyama has the highest density of famous tourist spots in Kyoto, if not in all of Japan. As I explain in my soon-to-be finished travel guide (on which this update is based) I strongly recommend visiting Higashiyama on a weekday that is not a national holiday. This is especially important during the sakura (cherry blossom) season around April and the koyo (falling leaves) seasons around November.
In my guidebook I recommend, if possible, visiting Southern Higashiyama in one day and Northern Higashiyama the next. They can also be combined in one very long summer's day (when there are longer hours of daylight) but are best spread over two days. Maruyama Park makes a good place to finish one and start the other.
Southern Higashiyama
In my guide I recommend starting at Kiyomizu Dera (possibly via the Kyoto National Museum and/or Sanjusangendo) and finishing at Maruyama Park and the adjacent Yasaka Shrine, which is especially beautiful at night. Unfortunately, there are no good vegan (or even vegan-friendly) restaurants in Southern Higashiyama, so it's necessary to go back into central Kyoto. I recommend eating well in the morning (perhaps at Veg Out) and then walking back towards central Kyoto for lunch. After Yasaka Shrine there are plenty of good vegan restaurants for dinner (or lunch if doing all of Higashiyama in one day).Ninen Zaka, Higashiyama at dawn, the only time it's free of crowds. |
Northern Higashiyama
Northern Higashiyama is one of my favourite districts in Kyoto. Its most famous part is the Path of Philosophy, which leads to the famous Ginkakuji (Silver Pavillion).There are several vegan restaurants at the beginning and end of this itinerary.
Café Choice ($$, International, Vegan, Gluten Free)
Besides being gluten free, there’s nothing very special about this pasta, and at ¥1400 it’s not nearly as good value as comparable meals at other restaurants. Go here when you have a special reason to, and there are plenty of those reasons. |
Being open early, Cafe Choice is also a good option for breakfast when exploring northern Higashiyama, or for lunch if doing all of Higashiyama in one long day. It's also a reasonable option (perhaps second after Ain Soph) for a dinner before exploring Gion in the evening, but portions may seem a bit small for a hungry traveller after a day of walking Higashiyama.
Like T’s Tantan in Tokyo, it's somewhere most visitors end up sooner or later. It boasts what’s probably the largest interior of any vegan restaurant in Kyoto (if not in all of Japan), and its extensive menu is not just healthy but also completely gluten free. And best of all: it’s open for breakfast (from 8:30), from which it’s an easy walk from Higashiyama. It’s the best place in Kyoto to get a coffee and get some work done, or just chill out, and it’s large enough that it shouldn’t be a problem to stay a long time. It also sells its own vegan cheese, and some alternative health and body care products.
A Place to Get Work Done?
As a large restaurant with a range of table arrangements, they're unlikely to be full, so while I'd recommend not staying longer than it takes to eat your meal if customers are waiting for tables, they advertise themselves as an 'eat and study space' and offer free wifi, so if you need to hang out or get some work done, Cafe Choice makes a good alternative to Starbucks. Restaurants like this generally expect customers to order a drink if staying a long time, even after eating a meal.
No tables? The nearby Hobodo Café also has a small bar table for individuals to read or go online.
Order a coffee and get some work done, using the free wifi. There are also plenty of individual tables in the large restaurant. |
My suggestion: Go to Choice for a variety of reasons: it has reliablehours, is open for breakfast, is gluten free and has a large space for bothdining and café-style seats for reading or doing study/work. But don't come without any of these reasons if there are other options around, as food is better value elsewhere, and you'll probably end up here soon enough anyway.
Padma ($$, Macrobiotic, Vegan, 平和的ごはんパドマ)
From here, most travellers walk the famous Philosopher's Path to Ginkakuji, the famous Silver Pavillion, possibly stopping at Heian Shrine on the way. After Ginkakuji there are several good vegan options for dinner along Imadegawa Dori, on the way to Demachiyanagi Station. From Demachiyanagi Station, most visitors travel to Gion-Shijo Station, to wander the streets of Gion, the famous Geisha District. The best place for a late meal there is Ain Soph Journey. Be sure also to walk down the historic Shirakawa Minami Dori, which is arguably the most beautiful street in Asia.
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Ginkakuji (Silver Pavillion), Northern Higashiyama |
Cacao Magic ($$$, Raw Chocolate, Vegan)
This boutique raw chocolate factory spends most of its timeas a factory, churning out prized chocolates which are sold online; however,during less-busy times (times I’ve never managed to visit during, despiteseveral attempts over several years) it also functions as a small café, servingup delectable raw vegan desserts. Its owner discovered raw food while living inthe USA, and after various attempts to bring the diet and lifestyle back to hernative Japan, she found that chocolate was the most effective way to reach themasses with the raw message. The café sits at the end of the Philosopher’sPath, where visitors might be so elated from the beauty of the path (and thusso detached from their bank balance) – or so ravenous from walking it – that theymight be willing to part with ¥2000 for a box of four small raw, organic, veganchocolates.
Gorey Cafe ($, Italian, Vegetarian)
10minutes’ walk (800 metres) northeast of Yoshida Shrine.
京都市左京区浄土寺西田町82-1
82-1Jodoji Nishidacho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8417
Website,Facebook, Happycow
Directions
(075)203-6296 (staff speak English)
Large, satisfyingmeals at incredibly low prices.
Long, reliableopening hours.
Very simple food,befitting for the price.
The most authentic Pad Thai I have had outside of Thailand.
Reportedly the oldest vegetarian (now vegan) restaurant inKyoto besides the temple kitchens, Village has the vibe to match its age. Thetalented owner plays the roles of chef, barman, waiter and dishwasher, but hehas such a chill, zen vibe about him that you wouldn’t know he was filling allthese roles. Limitations in space and time still apply, however, and he canonly prepare your meal when he isn’t attending other jobs, so orders cansometimes take a while to arrive. Dishes tend to be small (but still goodvalue) so it’s usually best to order a few (except for the excellent-value,¥1200, Daily Plate for lunch) and the first will usually arrive quite soon. Themenu features a range of Japanese, Indian and Western dishes, mostly from¥1000-1500. A filling meal for two hungry Higishiyama explorers is likely tocome to around ¥2000-4000. This is really a bar, at which there is an expectation inJapan that customers will order at least one drink. While the owner alludes toit with a gentle request in the menu, he is ‘too Japanese’ (too polite) to sayso directly, especially to his customers’ faces. This expectation is built intothe menu’s pricing system, however, as profit is made – and rent paid – on thedrinks more than the food. The natural Cola is delicious, but does containcaffeine.
The website has little information, Facebook is an old onedating back to before businesses could have “pages”, and the ‘unofficial’listing on Google Maps has more information than the official one. It appearsthat the owner here doesn’t need to market or even update his profile at all tostay in business. If coming by bus, please watch your location carefully andget off if the bus turns away; I have had buses veer off course from GoogleMaps, as some buses use the same number but take different routes out of thecity and Google doesn’t know which are which because they don’t run to stricttimes. After the last stop follow signs to the restaurant on the second floor.
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Sujata ($$, North Indian, Japanese, Vegetarian) Mon,Tue, Thu, Fri: 12:00-18:00; Sat-Sun: 12:00-17:00Sujatais on the way back from Ginkakuji to Demachiyanagi Station. Tenminutes’ walk east of Demachiyanagi Station on the Keihan Main Line. Fifteenminutes’ walk west of Ginkakuji and the north end of the Philosopher’s Path.Severalbuses ply this route in both directions; use the the directions link below, buttheir times are not reliable on Google, so it may be faster and more pleasantto walk.96-2Tanaka Monzencho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8225Delicious,home-style Indian and Japanese meals; excellent value; kind vegetarian owner. Irregular opening hours,but you’ll probably walk past it on your way back from Ginkakuji anyway.
Sujata is a charming little restaurant run by a devoted disciple of Sri Chinmoy, a Indian guru who taught his followers to be vegetarian (not vegan) and encouraged them to run vegetarian restaurants. She also serves some traditional Japanese foods, making for an unusual mix of flavours. While the occasional egg is offered in some dishes, virtually the whole menu is vegan by default, and she has a very good understanding of veganism.
If you like Indian food and/or are travelling on a budget I highly recommend Sujata. Her samosas, which are made from scratch, are the best I've ever tasted outside of Indian homes, and remind me of my Indian friend's mother's cooking from when I was a child.
Sujata closes for the occasional long period (often in January) and is now usually closed for dinner, so it's best to call first during the new year she is an absolute life saver. I recommend calling first, or just continuing on to Sunny Place and Padma. Don't be tempted by the Indian restaurants next door who capitalise on a stream of hungry vegetarians distraught over finding Sujata closed; there are far better options around here.
Not just Indian: This traditional Japanese New Years Eve dish was delicious.
Shirakawa Minami Dori
Kyoto Tip: After dinner in northern Higashiyama, most people head to the famous Geisha district of Gion. When you do, be sure to visit Shirakawa Minami Dori, the most beautiful street in Asia.Shirakawa Minami-dori (Gion) during the sakura (cherry blossoms).
Arashiyama
Arashiyama is a beautiful suburb to the west of Tokyo. It doesn't have the same density of temples or historic quarters as Higashiyama, but is at least as beautiful. While Arashiyama has many beautiful temples nestled into the mountains, its most famous site (and one of the most famous in Kyoto, if not all of Japan) is the Bamboo Grove behind Tenryugi Temple. Arashiyama is much more spread out than Higashiyama and, while still very popular, is much less busy than Higashiyama, so if you must visit one of these on a weekend, it's better that it's Arashiyama.
Besides Kanga An (in northern Kyoto), most Shojin Ryori restaurants are in Arashiyama, so this is the place to reserve ahead and (if it's part of your plan and budget) spend up on dining. 11:00-14:00; lunch by appointment only (though individual walk-in customers may sometimes be accepted during the low season).
Sujata closes for the occasional long period (often in January) and is now usually closed for dinner, so it's best to call first during the new year she is an absolute life saver. I recommend calling first, or just continuing on to Sunny Place and Padma. Don't be tempted by the Indian restaurants next door who capitalise on a stream of hungry vegetarians distraught over finding Sujata closed; there are far better options around here.
Besides Kanga An (in northern Kyoto), most Shojin Ryori restaurants are in Arashiyama, so this is the place to reserve ahead and (if it's part of your plan and budget) spend up on dining.
Lunch or dinner strictly by appointment only (at least three days' notice required).
Eight minutes' walk southwest of Uzumasa Station on the Sanin Main Line (from Kyoto Station).
Thirty minutes' walk (2.4 km) from Tenruji Shigetsu or the Bamboo Grove.
8-29 Saganohirakichō, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8313
The owner and his assistant are clearly passionate about food, and they went out of their way to explain the different types of daikon (radishes), which were the focus of that day's meal, and even brought out four different-coloured ones, and explained where they were grown and how they were used in the meal, which was all explained on a sheet (in English) at the table before I arrived.
If you’ll have just one expensive meal in Kyoto, dining in a temple offers a more unique and memorable experience (I recommend Kanga An). But if you’re just after a meal of a lifetime, slightly less expensive than shojin ryori, then Little Heaven gives the temples a good run for their money.
Southern Kyoto
is Daigoji, a massive temple complex which makes a good alternative to anyone who would prefer a quiet temple and hike than the temple-hopping circuits in Higashiyama and Arashiyama.
Inari Station on the JR Nara Line (beside Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine).
Vegans Cafe & Restaurant is Kyoto's most famous vegan restaurant, and a default hangout for the city's vegan and animal rights community. Its owners previously ran an Yakinuku (fried meat) restaurant, and then after reading about animal cruelty online, the closed their successful business and opened this instead. This gives the restaurant a vibe which the majority of macrobiotic cafes in Japan (including most in Kyoto) just don't have when they're run by someone perhaps vaguely interested in the health aspects of macrobiotic food (which often comes after a period of ill-health) or who simply sees a business opportunity in serving it to vegan tourists.
The best Western comfort food in Kyoto, at Vegans Café & Restaurant. |
Vegans Cafe & Restaurant has the key ingredients of a good restaurant: its staff know how to run a restaurant and are passionate about veganism. And it serves modern, delicious fusion cuisine with particular emphasis on classic western comfort foods, including the best pizza in Kyoto.